Home Energy Audit Checklist 2026: DIY Steps, Pro Costs & Rebates

A home energy audit is the single highest-ROI diagnostic you can run on your house. The average professional audit costs $437 in 2026, and homeowners who act on the findings save $685 per year on energy bills — meaning the audit pays for itself in about 7 months and keeps paying for decades after. A thorough DIY walkthrough, done with nothing more than a flashlight and a notepad, can still surface $300–$400 in annual savings.

But 2026 brought a major policy shift you need to know about. The federal Section 25C tax credit — which reimbursed up to $150 of an audit's cost — expired on December 31, 2025 under the One Big Beautiful Bill Act (OBBBA). If you completed a qualifying audit in 2025 or earlier, you can still claim it on that year's return using IRS Form 5695. For 2026 audits, the federal credit is gone. The replacement: state-administered HOMES and HEAR rebate programs, which can put up to $8,000 (HOMES) or $14,000 (HEAR) back in your pocket for efficiency upgrades identified during an audit.

This checklist walks you through every room in your house, explains what a professional audit adds that you can't do yourself, breaks down the real costs and rebates, and tells you exactly when DIY is enough — and when it's worth paying a pro. If you're also researching how to reduce your electricity bill or weighing a heat pump vs furnace, an audit is the smart first step before either.

The Big Change in 2026: Section 25C Is Gone

For three years (2023–2025), the Section 25C Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit let homeowners claim 30% of an energy audit's cost as a federal tax credit, capped at $150. It was a nice incentive that effectively cut a $500 audit to $350 after tax savings. The OBBBA terminated Section 25C in full on December 31, 2025 — not just for audits, but for the whole suite of efficiency improvements it covered (heat pumps, insulation, windows, doors).

Here's what that means for your 2026 audit planning:

The practical takeaway: before you book a professional audit in 2026, check whether your state's HOMES/HEAR program has launched. If it has, the audit may be required to qualify for the rebate (and in some states, the audit itself is subsidized or free). If your state's program hasn't launched yet, your best bet is a utility-company-subsidized audit — many utilities offer audits for $50–$100, or even free for income-qualified customers. Search the DSIRE database or your utility's website for "energy audit rebate."

For a full breakdown of solar tax credit changes under OBBBA — including the lease/PPA workaround that still captures 30% commercial credit — see our 2026 solar tax credits guide.

DIY Home Energy Audit Checklist: Room by Room

You can find roughly 60% of a home's energy waste yourself with a flashlight, a notepad, and about 90 minutes. The professional audit's advantage is the blower door test and infrared camera — which find the hidden 40% (wall cavity insulation gaps, duct leakage behind drywall, air leaks you can't feel). But the obvious stuff is yours to catch for free.

Work through this checklist systematically. Bring a candle or incense stick (to detect drafts), a tape measure, your last 12 months of utility bills, and a phone for photos.

1. Attic and Roof (Start Here — Biggest Payoff)

The attic is where 25–30% of a home's heating and cooling loss happens, and it's the cheapest place to fix. Most homes built before 2000 are under-insulated by today's standards.

• Measure insulation depth. Current DOE recommendation for most U.S. climate zones is R-49 to R-60 in the attic — that's roughly 16–20 inches of fiberglass batts, or 18–22 inches of blown-in cellulose. If you can see the ceiling joists, you have less than R-25 and need more.
• Check for compression and gaps. Insulation only works when it's fluffy. Walked-on or storage-compressed batts lose 50%+ of their R-value. Look for gaps around wiring penetrations, plumbing vents, and the chimney.
• Inspect the attic hatch. Pull-down stairs and hatch covers are notoriously leaky. If you can feel air movement or see daylight around the hatch, it needs weatherstripping and an insulated cover (a $30–$60 DIY fix).
• Look for moisture stains. Dark spots on roof sheathing indicate condensation from warm moist air escaping into a cold attic — a sign of both air leaks and inadequate ventilation. Black staining often means mold.
• Check bathroom and kitchen fan exhausts. They should vent through the roof, not into the attic. Vents terminating in the attic dump warm moist air that condenses on cold surfaces — a leading cause of attic mold and roof deck rot.
• Verify soffit and ridge vent paths. Insulation should not block soffit vents. Install baffles (rigid foam channels, ~$3 each) at the eaves to keep air flowing from soffit to ridge.

2. Exterior Walls (Harder to DIY — Inspect What You Can)

• Find your wall insulation type. If you have an unfinished basement or attic knee wall, you may see insulation in the wall cavities. Otherwise, remove a single electrical outlet cover on an exterior wall (after turning off the breaker) and shine a flashlight into the gap — you'll see if there's fiberglass, cellulose, or nothing at all.
• Check for knob-and-tube wiring. Pre-1940 homes may have this old wiring, which cannot be buried in insulation (fire hazard). If you find it, hire an electrician before insulating.
• Feel exterior walls on a cold night. A wall that feels markedly colder than others may indicate a missing or settled insulation bay. A professional infrared scan will confirm this.
• Inspect exterior siding and trim. Gaps, cracks, and rotting trim are air and water entry points. Caulk gaps; replace damaged trim.

Wall insulation is the one area where a professional audit genuinely earns its cost. Infrared thermography finds empty wall cavities, settled insulation, and thermal bridges that no amount of DIY inspection can locate. If your home is pre-1980 and has never been audited, the wall scan alone justifies the professional fee.

3. Windows and Doors

• Candle test every window and door. On a windy day, hold a lit candle or incense stick 1 inch from the frame and slowly trace the perimeter. A flicker or smoke drift means an air leak. Mark each leak with a sticky note.
• Check weatherstripping. Compressed, cracked, or missing weatherstripping is the #1 source of door leaks. A $10 foam or V-strip replacement kit seals an exterior door completely.
• Inspect window glazing. On older wood windows, the glazing putty holding the glass cracks and falls out over decades. Missing putty = air leaks + glass rattle. Re-glazing is a $5/materials, 30-minute-per-window DIY job.
• Look for single-pane windows. If you have single-pane glass (tap the window — it'll sound thin and tinny), storm windows or replacement should be on your long-term list. Single-pane windows have an R-value of ~0.9; double-pane is ~2.0; triple-pane is ~3.5+.
• Check for condensation between panes. Fog or water between double-pane glass means the seal has failed and the insulating gas (argon or krypton) is gone. The window still works but has lost 30–50% of its insulating value.
• Feel for solar heat gain. On a sunny summer afternoon, hold your hand near south- and west-facing windows. If they radiate strong heat, consider low-E window film ($30–$80 per window DIY) or exterior shading.

4. HVAC System

• Check and replace filters. A clogged filter is the #1 cause of HVAC inefficiency and failure. Check monthly during heating/cooling season; replace every 1–3 months. A $10 filter saves $20–$50/month in run cost.
• Inspect visible ductwork. In basements and crawlspaces, look for disconnected joints, crushed flex duct, and gaps at the register boots. Seal leaks with mastic sealant (not duct tape, which fails within months). The DOE estimates leaky ducts waste 20–30% of conditioned air.
• Feel each register. On a heating or cooling day, check every supply register for airflow. A weak register indicates a duct leak or blockage between the unit and that room.
• Check equipment age. Furnaces over 15 years and AC units over 10 years are candidates for replacement with high-efficiency units. Modern cold-climate heat pumps deliver 300%+ efficiency (COP 3.0+) vs. a 98.5% AFUE furnace. See our heat pump vs furnace comparison for the full math.
• Inspect the outdoor condenser. Clear vegetation and debris from a 2-foot radius. A choked condenser reduces AC efficiency by 10–20%.
• Schedule annual professional maintenance. A $100–$200 tune-up catches refrigerant leaks, dirty coils, and electrical issues before they become $2,000 compressor failures.

5. Water Heater and Plumbing

• Touch the water heater tank. If it's warm to the touch, it's losing heat. An insulating blanket ($20–$30) reduces standby loss by 25–45% on older tanks. (Don't insulate gas units' top or bottom — fire hazard.)
• Check the thermostat setting. Many are factory-set to 140°F. Dropping to 120°F saves 4–22% on water heating costs and reduces scald risk. Use a thermometer at the tap — tank dials are notoriously inaccurate.
• Insulate hot water pipes. Foam pipe sleeves ($1–$2 per 6-foot section) on the first 10 feet of pipe from the heater reduce standby loss and get hot water to the tap faster.
• Check for leaks. A dripping hot water faucet wastes 200+ gallons of heated water per year. A 1-drip-per-second leak = ~$35/year in water heating cost alone.
• Consider a heat pump water heater. When your tank fails, a heat pump water heater (HPWH) uses 60–70% less electricity than a standard electric tank. They cost $1,200–$2,000 installed but the HEAR rebate covers up to $1,750 — making them effectively free or near-free for qualifying households.

6. Lighting and Appliances

• Hunt incandescent and halogen bulbs. An old 60W incandescent replaced with a 9W LED saves ~$5/year per bulb and lasts 25x longer. A full-home LED retrofit (20 bulbs) pays back in under a year.
• Audit phantom loads. Anything with a remote, display, or wall wart draws power 24/7. TVs, game consoles, cable boxes, and chargers are the worst offenders. A $20 Kill A Watt meter measures each device's standby draw. The average home loses $100–$200/year to phantom power. Use smart power strips to cut standby loads automatically.
• Check refrigerator seals. Close a dollar bill in the door. If it slips out easily, the gasket needs replacement ($30–$60 DIY). A bad seal runs the compressor harder and costs $30–$60/year.
• Look for ENERGY STAR labels. If your refrigerator is 10+ years old, a new ENERGY STAR model uses 40% less electricity. Utilities often offer $50–$100 rebates plus free haul-away of the old unit.
• Check clothes dryer venting. A clogged vent doubles drying time and is a fire hazard. Clean the full vent run annually (a $20 brush kit does it).

7. Basement and Crawlspace

• Seal rim joist and sill plate. The wood rim joist where the foundation meets the framing is one of the leakiest spots in a home. Seal gaps with caulk or spray foam ($15/can), then insulate with rigid foam board cut to fit.
• Insulate basement walls. An uninsulated basement wall has R-1 to R-3. Rigid foam board (R-5 to R-10 per inch) glued to the wall is a $300–$600 DIY project that saves $150–$300/year in heated-basement homes.
• Check for moisture. Dampness reduces insulation effectiveness and creates mold. Grade the soil away from the foundation, extend downspouts 6+ feet, and run a dehumidifier if humidity exceeds 50%.
• Seal crawlspace vents. In humid climates, open crawlspace vents bring in moisture that condenses on cool surfaces. Encapsulating and conditioning the crawlspace is now the recommended approach — seal vents, install a vapor barrier on the floor, and condition the air.

8. Thermostat and Controls

• Upgrade to a smart thermostat if you haven't. The Nest Learning 4th Gen ($279.99), Ecobee Enhanced ($199.99), and Amazon Smart Thermostat ($79.99) all deliver 8–23% savings per EPA-certified testing. See our full smart thermostat comparison for 2026 pricing and features.
• Program setbacks. Heating: 7–10°F lower when asleep or away. Cooling: 7–10°F higher. Each degree of setback for 8 hours/day saves ~1% on the relevant fuel. A properly programmed thermostat is free savings if you already own one.
• Check thermostat location. A thermostat near a sunny window, kitchen, or heat register will misread the home's true temperature and overwork the HVAC. Relocate if needed.

DIY Audit Summary: What You'll Find and Save

After working through the eight sections above, you'll have a prioritized list of issues. Here's what the typical DIY audit uncovers, compared to what a professional audit finds:

About 42% of homeowners who complete a DIY audit end up hiring a professional within six months — usually because they've confirmed obvious issues and now want the diagnostic precision to prioritize larger investments (insulation retrofits, HVAC replacement, window decisions).

What a Professional Energy Audit Includes

A professional audit adds three diagnostic tools you can't replicate at home: the blower door test, infrared thermography, and (sometimes) a duct blaster test. Together these find the hidden 40% of energy waste — the stuff behind drywall, under floors, and inside ductwork.

The Blower Door Test

A calibrated fan is sealed into an exterior door frame and depressurizes the house to 50 Pascals (roughly equivalent to a 20 mph wind hitting all four walls simultaneously). The auditor then walks room-to-room with a smoke pencil or thermal camera, marking every leak. The fan's airflow rate tells them the home's total air leakage in cubic feet per minute (CFM).

The target: 0.35 air changes per hour (ACH) at 50 Pa for a reasonably tight home. Older homes often measure 8–15 ACH50 (very leaky); new construction targets 3–5 ACH50. A reading above 5 ACH50 means air sealing will deliver significant comfort and efficiency gains.

This test alone justifies the professional fee. Air leakage accounts for 25–40% of heating and cooling loss in the average home, and you can't feel most of it — the leaks are behind siding, through top plates, around recessed lights, and through the chimney chase. A blower door makes them visible.

Infrared Thermography

An infrared camera shows surface temperature differences as small as 0.1°F. On a 20+°F day-night temperature differential (best done in winter or summer, not shoulder seasons), the camera reveals:

• Missing or settled wall insulation (appears as cold streaks on exterior walls)
• Insulation gaps around electrical boxes and behind trim
• Air leakage paths through top plates and around fixtures
• Thermal bridges at framing members
• Wet insulation (water conducts heat 25x faster than air, so damp areas show as cold)

Done in tandem with the blower door (the gold standard), the infrared camera shows exactly where the depressurized air is entering — a real-time leak map.

Duct Blaster Test (Optional)

If your home has forced-air HVAC, a duct blaster pressurizes the duct system separately from the house to measure duct leakage. The DOE estimates the average home loses 20–30% of conditioned air through duct leaks — often in unconditioned attics and crawlspaces where the loss is doubled (you pay to heat/cool air that never reaches the room and the leaky duct draws in unconditioned air elsewhere). A duct blaster quantifies this and identifies which duct runs need sealing.

Professional Audit Cost Breakdown (2026)

Three tiers of professional audit exist, distinguished by equipment used and depth of analysis:

For most homeowners, the standard audit at ~$437 delivers the best value — it includes the blower door and infrared imaging needed to identify 85–90% of energy waste without paying for engineering-level analysis most homes don't need. The advanced tier is worth it for large or complex homes (3,000+ sq ft, multiple HVAC zones, cathedral ceilings) or if you're planning major renovations and need a modeled energy plan.

Cost by Home Size

Most auditors now use transparent per-square-foot pricing (typically $0.17–$0.25/sq ft), so you'll know the cost before scheduling. Home complexity matters more than size — a 2,000 sq ft home with multiple HVAC zones, cathedral ceilings, or a finished basement costs more than a simple ranch of the same size.

Auditor Certifications That Matter

BPI certification is the industry standard for whole-home performance audits and is recognized by virtually all utility and state rebate programs. RESNET HERS Raters specialize in home energy ratings often used in real estate transactions (a HERS score is increasingly required for new construction and green mortgages). While the federal 25C tax credit no longer requires certification in 2026 (because the credit is gone), most state and utility rebate programs still require a BPI- or RESNET-certified auditor — and certified auditors find approximately 64% more savings opportunities than non-certified alternatives.

HOMES and HEAR Rebate Programs: The 2026 Replacement for 25C

With the federal 25C credit gone, the primary financial incentives for home efficiency in 2026 are two DOE-administered rebate programs funded by the Inflation Reduction Act and now rolling out state-by-state: HOMES (Home Owner Managing Energy Savings) and HEAR (Home Efficiency Rebates, formerly HEEHR). Both are administered by states, territories, and Tribes, so availability and exact amounts vary by location.

HOMES Rebate (Whole-Home Performance)

HOMES rewards whole-home energy reductions of 15% or more, measured either by modeled energy savings or a pre/post blower-door improvement. The rebate is tiered:

HOMES requires a professional energy audit before and after the work — the audit is the documentation that unlocks the rebate. This is the single strongest reason to hire a BPI-certified auditor in 2026: without one, you cannot claim HOMES. Check your state's energy office or the DOE Home Energy Rebates portal for launch status.

HEAR Rebate (Point-of-Sale, Appliance-Specific)

HEAR provides point-of-sale rebates (instant discounts at participating retailers) for specific electric appliance and efficiency measures, with higher amounts for households at or below 80% of Area Median Income (AMI):

The total HEAR cap is $14,000 per household. Income-qualified households (≤80% AMI) get the full rebate amounts; moderate-income households (80–150% AMI) get 50% of the listed amounts; above 150% AMI is not eligible for HEAR (though HOMES is available to all income levels at the standard rebate tier).

Because HEAR rebates are point-of-sale, your contractor or retailer applies the discount directly — no waiting for a tax refund. This is a meaningful change from the 25C model, which required you to front the full cost and claim the credit months later at tax time.

Utility Rebate Programs (Available Now in Most States)

Don't wait for HOMES/HEAR to launch in your state. Most utilities already offer their own rebate programs for audits and efficiency upgrades. Common offerings:

• Discounted or free audits — Many utilities subsidize audits to $50–$100, or offer them free for income-qualified customers.
• Smart thermostat rebates — $25–$100 toward a Nest, Ecobee, or similar (see our thermostat guide for current offers).
• HVAC tune-up rebates — $50–$150 toward annual maintenance.
• Heat pump rebates — $500–$2,000+ for high-efficiency units, often stackable with manufacturer promotions.
• Appliance recycling — $30–$50 plus free pickup of old refrigerators and freezers.
• LED bulb giveaways — Many utilities mail free LEDs on request.

Search your utility's website for "energy efficiency rebate" or check the DSIRE database for a comprehensive list of state and local incentives.

What Energy Audits Typically Find (and What They Cost to Fix)

Pearl's analysis of 92 million home performance assessments found consistent patterns in what audits uncover. Here's what you're likely to find, what it costs to fix, and the payback:

Air sealing is nearly universal. If you're uncomfortable in your home or struggling with high bills, there's an 89% chance air leakage is a significant contributor. At $650 to fix with $280 in annual savings, air sealing delivers fast payback while dramatically improving comfort — it's usually the #1 recommendation in any audit report.

Quick wins add up fast. Zero-cost behavioral changes (unplugging phantom power loads) and low-cost fixes (water heater insulation at $125) provide immediate or fast returns that can fund bigger investments. Tackle these first, then roll the savings into the larger projects.

DIY vs. Professional: Decision Framework

Start with a DIY audit if:

• Your home is less than 20 years old and was built to a modern energy code.
• Your energy bills are within 10–15% of your neighbors' (check ENERGY STAR's Home Energy Yardstick).
• You're comfortable on a ladder and in your attic/crawlspace.
• You want to identify obvious issues before deciding whether to invest in a professional audit.
• Your state's HOMES/HEAR program hasn't launched yet and you're not pursuing rebates right now.

Hire a professional if:

• Your home is 20+ years old and has never been audited.
• Your energy bills are 20%+ higher than similar homes in your area.
• You have uneven room temperatures, persistent drafts, or ice dams in winter.
• You're planning a major renovation, HVAC replacement, or insulation retrofit ($5,000+ project).
• You want to claim HOMES or HEAR rebates (a certified audit is required).
• You're buying a home and want leverage for negotiation during the inspection period.
• You've completed a DIY audit and found issues you want quantified before paying to fix.

7 Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Skipping the DIY audit first. A 90-minute walkthrough catches the obvious 60% and helps you write a better scope for the professional. Going straight to a pro without context often results in a report you don't fully understand.
2. Hiring a non-certified auditor to save $150. Non-certified auditors find 35% fewer savings opportunities and their reports don't qualify for HOMES/HEAR rebates. The $150 "savings" on the audit can cost you thousands in unclaimed rebates and missed fixes.
3. Scheduling the audit in shoulder season. Infrared thermography needs a 20°F+ temperature differential between inside and outside. Schedule in deep winter (heating on) or peak summer (cooling on) for the most accurate thermal images.
4. Ignoring the report. An estimated 30–40% of audit reports are never acted on. The audit is a roadmap, not a trophy. Start with the quick wins (phantom loads, water heater blanket, weatherstripping) within 30 days while momentum is high.
5. Replacing windows first. Windows have the worst ROI of any efficiency upgrade (15–25 year payback). Air sealing, attic insulation, and duct sealing deliver 5–10x the savings per dollar. Do those first; windows are a comfort/longevity decision, not an efficiency one.
6. Not getting multiple quotes for the fixes. The audit report tells you what to fix, not who should fix it. Get 3 bids on any project over $1,000 — pricing varies 30–50% between contractors for identical work.
7. Forgetting to claim rebates. Utility rebates and state programs change quarterly. Before starting any project, check your utility's current offerings and DSIRE. Many homeowners leave $500–$2,000 on the table simply by not filling out a rebate form.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a professional home energy audit cost in 2026?

A standard professional home energy audit with a blower door test and infrared imaging averages $437 in 2026, with a range of $200–$700 depending on home size and location. A basic visual-only inspection costs around $165, while an advanced diagnostic audit with energy modeling runs $400–$1,000. Most homeowners save approximately $685 per year by implementing audit recommendations, meaning a standard audit pays for itself in about 7 months.

Is there still a federal tax credit for a home energy audit in 2026?

No. The Section 25C federal tax credit for home energy audits (up to $150, covering 30% of audit costs) expired on December 31, 2025 under the One Big Beautiful Bill Act. If you completed a qualifying audit by December 31, 2025, you can still claim it on your 2025 tax return using IRS Form 5695. For audits performed in 2026 and beyond, there is no federal tax credit available — but state utility rebate programs (HOMES and HEAR) may still offset costs.

Can I do a home energy audit myself?

Yes. A DIY home energy audit using a checklist can identify roughly 12 common issues (air leaks, insufficient insulation, phantom power loads, outdated lighting, HVAC filter problems) and typically reveals about $385 in annual savings opportunities. However, DIY audits cannot replicate a blower door test or infrared thermography, which professional audits use to find 35 issues on average and identify $825 in annual savings. About 42% of homeowners who complete a DIY audit end up hiring a professional within 6 months.

What is the HOMES rebate program and how much can I get?

The HOMES (Home Owner Managing Energy Savings) rebate program provides up to $8,000 for whole-home energy efficiency projects that achieve significant modeled energy savings. It is administered by states, territories, and Tribes through the DOE. Eligible projects often include insulation, air sealing, and HVAC upgrades identified during an energy audit. Availability varies by state — check the DOE Home Energy Rebates portal or DSIRE for your state's program status. The companion HEAR program offers up to $14,000 in point-of-sale rebates for specific electric appliances and efficiency measures, with higher amounts for low- and moderate-income households.

What is a blower door test and do I need one?

A blower door test is a diagnostic procedure where a powerful fan is sealed into an exterior door frame to depressurize the house, drawing air in through leaks in the building envelope. The auditor then walks room-to-room to locate and quantify air infiltration. It is the single most valuable diagnostic in a professional energy audit because air leakage accounts for 25–40% of heating and cooling losses in the average home. You need one if your home feels drafty, has uneven room temperatures, or your energy bills seem high relative to your climate and home size. A blower door test typically costs $450–$650 as part of a standard professional audit.

How often should I get a home energy audit?

Every 5–10 years for a full professional audit, or whenever you make major home changes (new HVAC, addition, roof replacement, window replacement, or significant insulation upgrades). A DIY walkthrough checklist should be done annually, ideally before winter heating season or summer cooling season, to catch seasonal issues like weatherstripping degradation or HVAC filter neglect. Homes older than 20 years benefit most from frequent audits because building materials and seals degrade over time.

What certifications should I look for in an energy auditor?

Look for a BPI (Building Performance Institute) Certified Professional or a RESNET HERS Rater. BPI certification is the industry standard for whole-home performance audits and is recognized by most utility rebate programs. RESNET HERS Raters specialize in home energy ratings often used in real estate transactions. Certified auditors find approximately 64% more savings opportunities than non-certified auditors. While federal tax credits no longer require certification in 2026 (since the 25C credit expired), most state and utility rebate programs still require work performed by a certified professional.

The Bottom Line

A home energy audit is the rare home improvement that pays for itself in under a year and keeps paying for the life of the home. The 2026 policy landscape changed — the federal 25C tax credit is gone — but the HOMES and HEAR rebate programs (up to $8,000 and $14,000 respectively) are arguably more generous for homeowners willing to pursue whole-home improvements. The audit is the gateway to both.

Start with the free DIY checklist above. Spend 90 minutes with a flashlight and incense stick. You'll likely find $300–$400 in annual savings you can capture for under $100 in materials. If your DIY findings raise bigger questions — or if you're planning a major HVAC or insulation investment — hire a BPI-certified auditor for the $437 standard audit. The blower door and infrared scan will find the hidden 40% and produce the documentation you need for rebates.

Either way, the math is hard to argue with: the average homeowner who acts on audit recommendations saves $685 per year. At national average electricity rates of 18.83¢/kWh (and rising 3–5% annually), that savings grows every year. For more on cutting your energy costs, see our guides on reducing your electricity bill, heat pump vs furnace, and the best smart thermostats for 2026.

Home Energy Geek provides informational content only and does not constitute tax, legal, or financial advice. Rebate program availability and amounts are subject to change — verify current terms with your state energy office, utility company, or the DOE Home Energy Rebates portal before making purchasing decisions. This article may contain affiliate links; we may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.